Contemporary American
North Star goes west
by Kristine Hansen
For those who appreciate dressed-up American cuisine, add North Star American Bistros new Brookfield location to your list of destinations. The cheeseburgers are delectably meaty, and detailed attention is paid to the fine art of mixing cocktails.
Just four days after the opening of the bistro (the original Shorewood location has been open for two years), tables were scarce. Assigned a table near the front of the restaurant, one of only a few open spots, we marveled at the number of patrons for a Tuesday evening.
Another unexpected find: that an eatery tucked into a shopping center is not resigned to ugliness. A contemporary, clean look guides the eye around this cozy bistro, beginning with a foyer decorated with black-and-white photos of people and still life; and tall, narrow doors leading inside, where walls are colored cappuccino and burnt-red. On one side of the restaurant is a row of booths with high-back walls to chase away outside noise.
When it comes to drinks, kitsch is in. They offer the routine Cosmopolitan, of course, but try resisting the Desperate Housewife martini. Separate from the restaurant area is a full-service bar with gorgeous woodwork, a friendly bartender and, at least during our visit, a cluster of people.
As a starter, we ordered warm goat cheese medallion ($8.95), despite being tempted by what the waiter suggests is the signature starter: crab cakes ($9.95). Goat cheese is pan-seared and then served on a bed of greens tossed in lemon-thyme vinaigrette with crostini and Granny Smith apple slaw, making for a delicious prelude to our entrees.
Pizzas and burgers, which are standbys at most restaurants, are given a different twist at North Star. Both the bacon and bleu cheese burger and the barbecue chicken pizza looked intriguing. Alas, we traveled the traditional route with a spinach and fontina pizza ($9.59, with rosemary giving this pizza a wonderful kick) and a regular cheeseburger ($9.45).
For dessert we ordered flourless chocolate cake ($5.95), very fudge-like and gooey, with a raspberry on top.
If youre bringing the little ones, then the childrens menucheese pizza, pasta with marinara sauce, hamburger and fries, and chicken tendersis a lifesaver. Childrens portions are also available on some dishes. And there is a Friday fish fry with three choices (perch, whitefish or shrimp).
Sometimes the restaurant staff can get pushy about their desire to bring you back for a second meal. But when our waiter described the weekend-brunch menu, my mouth watered. Cr?me brulee French toast or chorizo and shrimp frittata? With a cup of black coffee and a brioche morning bun, weekends offer the all-American breakfast, dressed up just a little bit.
